Cinque Terre:
Colorful Villages & the Ligurian Sea

Before explaining how we got here, there’s something important to share: Cinque Terre is a set of 5 villages clinging to steep cliffs along the Ligurian sea, where everything seems to defy geography. Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore form this unique landscape, declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. It is filled with brightly colored houses, terraced vineyards on steep slopes, and connected by paths where cars are virtually non-existent.

If looking at the pictures brings the movie Luca and the line "Silenzio Bruno!" to mind, that's no coincidence. The animated movie is set right in this region of Italy.

How We Got to Cinque Terre

There are three options: Car, train, or bus. Our initial idea was to rent a car for total freedom to stop anywhere and visit specific villages, but research quickly revealed reality:

• Car access is severely restricted.
• Parking spaces are very limited, located over 1.5 km outside some villages, and quite expensive.

Between bus and train, the train is hands-down the best option: faster and cheaper.

So from Milan, we caught a direct train to Monterosso al Mare, passing through Genoa without transfers—the ideal balance of time, comfort, and price.

Arrival in Monterosso al Mare: First Impressions

In Monterosso al Mare, the first thing that caught our attention was practical: the train station is located one level above the beach promenade. We took an elevator down with our suitcases and within minutes were walking right along the sea edge.

Key detail: the terrain here is fairly flat with a wide promenade. Navigating with luggage or strollers is surprisingly easy here.

We headed straight toward the famous Il Gigante statue… After exploring the area, we stumbled upon something that diverted our plans entirely: a seaside wedding! Flawless setup, elegantly dressed guests… and right across, a gelato shop. We didn't hesitate: gelato in hand, we sat down to watch the celebration.

We continued strolling along the promenade—a beautiful walk. We even crossed paths with the bride and her wedding party. Then we stopped for lunch at a spot that didn't disappoint: Bar da Stasiun.

And then came one of the most authentic travel moments: the groom appeared with his guests singing and dancing… pure Italian essence. They were chanting something that sounded like “pizza proletaria per tutti, viva la revolucione!” We didn't understand everything, but we understood the joyful vibe completely.

Heading to Vernazza: The Port Surprise

Our plan was to continue the journey by ferry to Vernazza, where our hotel was located. We walked toward the port through the Monterosso Tunnel, a decorated pedestrian tunnel connecting the modern Fegina area with the historic center and the pier.

Upon arrival, we discovered that ferries were canceled due to strong winds and rough seas. This is a crucial detail for Cinque Terre travelers: maritime transport is unpredictable.

Unlike trains, ferries depend heavily on sea conditions and are frequently canceled when waves build up, making the train your essential backup plan.

Before leaving Monterosso, we spotted the Aurora Tower and a historic German bunker built as a strategic vantage point—a historical detail easily missed if you don't know where to look.

In the summer, we would definitely choose Monterosso al Mare as a base because it is the only village in Cinque Terre with a proper sandy beach.

Afternoon & Evening in Vernazza

We arrived in Vernazza and had a slight challenge finding our accommodation; thankfully we had mobile data abroad (BNeSim eSIM) to contact the host. The choice paid off: central location and flat access (no endless stairs!).

Many accommodations are located high up the village, requiring constant climbing up steep stairways. Seeing it in person confirmed our belief:

👉 In Vernazza, location matters more than any other feature.

We dropped off our bags and set out to explore.

First Contact: Crowds, Rough Waves, and High Energy

The main street was bustling with day-trippers.

We walked down to the harbor where the atmosphere shifted: waves were crashing fiercely against the rocks, creating a hypnotic spectacle.

We moved toward the main square, ringed by cafes, trattorias, and shops—an atmosphere remarkably similar to the setting of Luca, whose director lived in both Monterosso and Vernazza while drawing inspiration.

Reaching the shoreline, we encountered the iconic Church of Santa Margherita d'Antiochia.

The church features unique architecture, with sturdy stone pillars and a seafront position that makes it a classic Italian postcard image.

The stone columns, stained glass, and sea views through the windows transport you to another era.

Climbing Doria Castle Tower: The Best View of Vernazza

We decided to climb toward the highest point on the cliff, tackling narrow steps that make you feel every stride.

Destination: Doria Castle Tower.

The entrance fee is very affordable (around 2 Euros) and thoroughly worth it.

The cylindrical tower is what remains of an ancient fortification built by the Doria family as a lookout post against pirate raids.

The final stretch of climbing is steep, but the reward is undeniable:

👉 A panoramic view over Vernazza, terraced vineyards, cliffside coastline, and parts of Cinque Terre. The kind of view that justifies the trip.

The Other Side of Vernazza (The One Few Show)

On the way down, we kept exploring and took a path opposite the castle, climbing behind the church.

That led to one of the best surprises of the day.

From this angle, the church bell tower is framed alongside terraced vineyards with Doria Tower lighting up in the twilight.

A distinct, less known, but honestly stunning postcard view.

We kept walking until reaching a trail checkpoint (which was closed for the evening), and as night fell, we made our way back down into town.

When Day-Trippers Leave, Magic Appears

And this is when Vernazza transforms completely.

Crowds dissipate, the pace slows down, and the village feels authentic and intimate.

We took the chance to try local street food: a paper cone of fried seafood and another of french fries shared together. And, naturally, gelato for dessert.

End of the Day: Simple, Authentic, and Perfect

With main streets emptied out, we kept walking into quieter residential alleys, even crossing under the railway tracks.

Tired and hungry, we stopped at Focacceria da Sonia to check if anything was left.

They freshly prepared prosciutto and arugula sandwiches on warm focaccia right in front of us. Fresh, delicious, and simple perfection.

We arranged to return there for breakfast the next morning.

Sunrise in Vernazza — Ferries Still Grounded

At dawn in Vernazza, we checked again whether ferries to Riomaggiore were running.

No luck.

The sea was still far too rough for boats to operate safely.

So after checking out, we stuck to the reliable option: the train.

Before leaving, we stopped by Focacceria da Sonia for breakfast. Warm, fresh, and friendly service—a total winner.

Riomaggiore: Getting Lost is Part of the Journey

Arriving in Riomaggiore, we left our bags at luggage storage near the train station. Here's a real travel moment: 👉 We negotiated the price… and ended up getting a 2-for-1 rate. Italy is also about those human interactions!

First Impressions: Picture Perfect (and Busy)

Riomaggiore is everything you imagine: pastel houses, a tiny harbor, and steep vertical architecture.

It is also the starting point for the famous coastal walk to Manarola via the Via dell’Amore.

We initially planned to hike it, but:

• Lines were extremely long
• Access is ticketed (includes mandatory trail fees)
• And cumulative fatigue was kicking in

We decided to leave the final call for later.

Down to the Harbor & Beginning the "Organized Chaos"

We walked down to the marina first: colorful boats, blue waters, and one of the most iconic postcard views of the trip.

From there, we followed a cliffside path hugging the coastline with steep stairways climbing toward the upper village where Castello di Riomaggiore sits.

So far, so good.

Then… the true adventure began.

Getting (Literally) Lost in Riomaggiore

The route became a maze of narrow alleyways, hidden lookouts, and unclear pathways.

At one point, a fellow traveler told us: "Just follow the arrows!"

Great advice… in theory.

We ended up on a broader street, but trail maps indicated turning onto a rough stair path surrounded by dense vegetation.

And that’s when we got genuinely lost.

We climbed past a vineyard without a paved trail, ducking under vine wires… until, almost accidentally, we reached a high lookout marked by a wooden cross.

Suddenly, everything made sense.

We sat down in quiet awe to take in the vast view. It turned into one of our absolute favorite moments of the day.

The Castle (Sort Of)

In that area sits the 13th-century castle, whose admission is included with Via dell’Amore tickets. Since we didn't hold that pass, we couldn't enter all areas… but staff kindly allowed us to step inside the courtyard area briefly without wall access.

Useful note: Via dell’Amore trail tickets include entrance to the Castle.

We still got a quick peek inside to appreciate its history...

The Castle and Church of San Giovanni

From there, we walked down via a much clearer, charming street lined with cozy houses and lanterns, arriving at the Church of San Giovanni Battista.

Practical Tip:

👉 This appears to be the "standard" walking route up to the castle—far more sensible than our adventurous vineyard detour. There is an elevator nearby (paid, €1), though after the climb we had just completed, we were fully warmed up anyway!

Eating Like Uruguayans in Italy

We continued wandering and stopped for lunch at a local trattoria.

We chose lasagna. Why? Because it had meat. And as Uruguayans… meat plays a major role in menu selection! 😄

Though credit where credit is due: Italian pasta and carbs operate in a league of their own.

Thwarted Plan (Again) and an Unexpected Alternative

The Via dell’Amore remained on our wishlist.

However, without advance reservations and strict visitor quotas, we decided to skip it.

Instead, we did something even better than expected:

A free trail on the opposite side of the cliff, literally crossing over the railway tracks.

A lesser-known, beautiful walk that reconnected us with areas we had walked earlier in the day.

When we noticed the path was starting to loop back (and with demanding stairs once again), we decided to head back.

Ending the Day & Departure to Pisa

We picked up our luggage before the storage facility closed (key detail: strict opening hours!) and caught the trains toward our next destination: Pisa.

Final Tip (The kind that truly matters)

• ✔ Stick to main streets if you want to optimize time.
• ✔ But if you are in relaxed travel mode… dare to get lost.

Because in Cinque Terre, very often, the best views are not on the paved, standard path.

Conclusions