Maceió and Maragogi on Our Own:
Chronicle of an Unforgettable Journey Along the Coral Coast

There are trips that are planned for months and others that are born almost out of an impulse. Ours was one of those. There were barely ten days left before our vacation started when we decided to return to Northeast Brazil. We wanted to explore the Coral Coast, discover São Miguel dos Milagres, and return to Maragogi, one of those places that always invites you back.

1. The flight challenge and the Porto Alegre alternative

The first challenge appeared immediately. Ticket prices from Montevideo to Maceió were extremely high and seemed to make the trip impossible. But, as we like to do every time we organize a getaway, we started looking for alternatives.

The answer appeared where we least expected it: Porto Alegre. Departing from southern Brazil allowed us to save over a thousand dollars. Even when adding the cost of fuel, tolls, and airport parking, the difference was still huge. The decision was made.

What we didn't imagine was that the adventure would begin long before boarding the plane. We left Uruguay during the night, planning to arrive at the airport with plenty of time. However, upon reaching the border, we encountered a massive line of vehicles. It was vacation season, and hundreds of travelers were also crossing toward the Brazilian beaches. The wait turned out to be much longer than expected.

When we finally got back on the road, we breathed a sigh of relief... until we discovered that some of our documentation had been left behind at Immigration. We had no choice but to turn back. Those were minutes of high tension. Between the time lost at the border and going back to retrieve the documents, we started wondering if we would make our flight. Fortunately, everything was right where we left it, and we were able to continue our journey.

Upon arriving at the Porto Alegre airport parking lot, we were struck by the huge number of cars with Uruguayan license plates. Later, we understood why. For many travelers from northern Uruguay, this airport has become an excellent alternative for flying international while saving a significant amount of money. With the car parked, bags ready, and check-in done, we finally felt that the vacation had truly begun. In a few hours, we would land in Maceió, completely unaware that rain, plan changes, and several detours would turn this trip into one of the most memorable we have ever experienced along the Coral Coast.

2. Maceió: love at first stroll

As soon as we landed in Maceió, we picked up our rental car and headed straight to the hotel. After several hours of traveling, we were finally where we had imagined so many times.

We stayed at the Hotel Costamar in Ponta Verde, one of the nicest neighborhoods in the city, just a few steps from the sea and very close to the famous Cadeira Gigante (Giant Chair). Since there were still a few hours of daylight left, we dropped off our bags, took a deep breath, and went out for a walk. This is a habit we repeat in every destination: we love getting to know a place on foot and absorbing its atmosphere.

The first impression was excellent. The boardwalk was pristine, filled with people walking, exercising, or simply enjoying the ocean breeze. As we walked, the traditional jangada boats rested on the sand while the sky began to turn into the colors of sunset. We made it to the Ponta Verde lighthouse, one of the most iconic spots in Maceió.

The scenery invited us to stay a good while just contemplating the sea, without checking the time and without thinking about anything else.

To end the day, we chose an all-you-can-eat rodízio barbecue on the block right across from the ocean (Churrascaria Beach Prime)—highly recommended, with live music, varied food, and great prices. Between meats, sushi, and Brazilian specialties, we toasted to the beginning of a vacation that promised much more than we ever expected. The next morning, we confirmed why so many travelers recommend waking up early in Maceió.

From the hotel rooftop, breakfast came with a privileged view of the Atlantic. Afterwards, we walked early over to the Cadeira Gigante. We had read that it gets packed with visitors later in the day, and arriving first thing turned out to be a smart move. While some tourists lined up to record popular drone videos, we preferred to enjoy the moment without rushing and keep exploring the waterfront.

Additionally, we were lucky enough to experience the Orla Aberta, a Sunday tradition where the coastal avenue is closed to traffic, turning it into a massive pedestrian promenade. Entire families were walking, riding bicycles, playing sports, or enjoying outdoor performances. Since International Women's Day was celebrated that month, the atmosphere was even more festive, complete with music, activities, and tributes.

We took advantage of the low tide to walk out to the lighthouse, while others treated themselves to a moment of tranquility with a cold coconut water, watching the beach and soaking in that slow-paced rhythm so characteristic of the Brazilian Northeast. We didn't know it yet, but as we said goodbye to Maceió to start our route toward São Miguel dos Milagres, a challenge to Google Maps would lead us to discover one of the most surprising places of the whole trip.

3. A challenge to Google Maps that ended up being a gift

With our luggage packed and the excitement of starting our drive along the Coral Coast, we left Maceió behind, bound for São Miguel dos Milagres. The plan seemed simple: drive along the coast at leisure, enjoy the views, and reach our accommodation by mid-afternoon. But the journey had other plans for us.

From Maceió, we followed the coast up via route AL-101 toward São Miguel dos Milagres, intentionally challenging Google Maps. Once in Barra do Santo Antônio, we wanted to stick right to the shore and passed through Carro Quebrado. This was a place we had long longed to visit since our previous trip to the Northeast (Recife, Pipa, Porto de Galinhas, Maragogi).

The access road already hinted that this would be different. The track cuts through massive sugarcane plantations that create a literal green tunnel. With every curve, the scenery shifted, giving the feeling of entering a hidden corner of the Alagoas coastline.

Upon arrival, we found the classic car that gives the place its name: an old VW Beetle (Fusca) covered in graffiti, now serving as one of the most photographed spots in the area. From there, we walked up to the viewpoint. A single glance was enough to know that the detour had been completely worth it. Spread out before us were reddish cliffs, an intense turquoise sea, and a virtually untouched beach. It was one of those landscapes that photos can barely capture.

There is a wooden viewpoint with a paid entrance, but we felt the view from the free lookout was already spectacular. We headed down to the beach to walk it calmly. Even though a few buggy tours arrive, the atmosphere remained incredibly peaceful. We sat by the ocean eating some freshly made Brazilian pastéis while taking in the view.

Before leaving, we browsed the small artisan stalls. We were particularly caught by tiny Beetles crafted out of coconuts—a great display of the local artisans' creativity. We returned to the car with wide smiles. What started as a navigation error had just gifted us one of the most beautiful landscapes. And São Miguel dos Milagres was still waiting for us, where a storm was about to nearly cancel the excursion we were most excited about.

When trying to head back toward São Miguel dos Milagres, we realized we had to retrace our steps to Barra do Santo Antônio to pick up a proper paved route. An "error" that was absolutely worth it.

4. São Miguel dos Milagres: where time stands still

After our unexpected detour to Carro Quebrado, we got back on the road with smiles on our faces. Our destination was São Miguel dos Milagres. As we drew closer, the landscape seemed to invite us to slow down. Big hotels faded away, making room for almost deserted beaches, small villages, and a peace that is hard to find in other tourist destinations.

We didn't waste any time. That very afternoon, we set out to explore the beach by bicycle. Pedaling on the sand, with the sound of the ocean on one side and coconut palms on the other, was an experience as simple as it was unforgettable. We barely crossed paths with anyone else. It felt like the beach was entirely ours. We paused several times to take photos, walk barefoot, and enjoy that silence only broken by the coming and going of the waves. We went to bed early that night. The next day, one of our most anticipated excursions awaited: the natural pools of Praia do Toque. But once again, the weather had other ideas.

5. The excursion that rain almost stole from us at Praia do Toque

During the early hours of the morning, a storm dumped an impressive amount of water. When we woke up, the sky was still completely gray and the phone rang very early. The excursion would likely be suspended. We resigned ourselves to it. However, five minutes before the scheduled time, the phone rang again: "—Are you ready? The tour is on!" We didn't think twice. In a few minutes, we were heading to the boarding spot.

What happened next confirmed, once more, that the best memories of this trip were born when plans seemed to fall apart. We reached the pier looking at the sky with some suspicion. The clouds were still there and the forecast wasn't great, but the tour was going ahead. We boarded a jangada, the traditional wooden sailboat of the Brazilian Northeast, and started sailing over a sea (remarkably calm thanks to the reef) that was slowly regaining its turquoise shades.

Our first stop was the natural pools of Praia do Toque. The moment we submerged, we understood why this spot is one of the greatest treasures of the Coral Coast. The water was so clear it seemed invisible.

Fish of every color swam around us, and starfish appeared nestled in the sand, which we observed without touching, respecting the fragile ecosystem. Bringing our own snorkel gear was one of the best decisions of the trip. It allowed us to enjoy the reef in total peace and spend as much time as we wanted discovering the marine life.

The second stop was completely different. Here, the landscape was the main star. They had set up net hammocks directly over the water and a massive watermelon-shaped inflatable where everyone wanted to take the classic souvenir photo. Nacho was the first to climb up and, amid laughter and splashes, ended up starring in some of the funniest pictures of the trip.

We thought that was it, but the most exciting part was still ahead. The jangada took us further out, to an area where several boats had massive waterslides installed that led directly into the ocean. Right as we were preparing to slide down, the sky turned dark again. Within minutes, it began to rain heavily. A thick sheet of water blankated the horizon, and for a few moments, we thought the excursion was over. Yet, just as it had happened since the start of this trip, nature surprised us again. The downpour began to ease, turning into a fine drizzle. That was our cue. We launched ourselves over and over down the slides and off the jangada roof, swimming and enjoying an experience that, paradoxically, felt even more special thanks to that unexpected rain.

As we started making our way back, something incredible happened. The sky opened up right over us, while a heavy downpour fell behind us, looking as if it had waited for us to say goodbye. If the tour had been canceled, we would have missed one of the most unforgettable moments of the trip. And we still didn't know that, on our way to Maragogi, the weather would change our plans once more... for the better.

6. When the sun changed all our plans

The next morning, we left São Miguel dos Milagres heading to Maragogi. The weather forecast looked bleak. It called for rain throughout most of the day, so our plan was straightforward: get to our accommodation, check in, and wait for the weather to clear up.

As we drove along, the clouds unexpectedly began to part. First, a timid ray of sunlight pierced through, and a few kilometers later, the sky opened up completely. The three of us looked at each other and thought the exact same thing: it was impossible to just drive past. We quickly searched for a nearby beach on the map and decided to detour to Praia de Lages, a spot we knew very little about.

The access trail already confirmed we had made the right call. We drove through a natural tunnel formed by towering wild reeds and coconut palms, as a few buggies kicked up small clouds of sand around us. Every turn revealed a different vista, and our excitement to arrive grew by the second. When we finally spotted the sea, we knew we had made the right choice.

The water boasted a deep turquoise color that contrasted beautifully with the green of the palms, and the beach was surprisingly quiet. Without thinking twice, we parked the car. What was meant to be a simple quick stop turned into several hours. We had lunch right by the sea, enjoyed refreshing ice-cold coconut water, and let time slide by without looking at a clock. There was no rush. We just wanted to make the most of that unexpected gift from the weather.

Before moving on, we made one last stop at the Porto de Pedras Lighthouse, a lookout situated atop a hill. From up there, we could see the entire coastline cutting between the vibrant green vegetation and the deep blue of the ocean. It was one of those images that stick with you long after the trip is over. As we walked back to the car, a thought struck us: if we had booked a private transfer or a standard organized tour, this day would have just been a rigid transit stretch between two destinations. Instead, thanks to the freedom of moving on our own, we had uncovered one of the most beautiful corners of the Coral Coast. With that feeling, we hit the road again. Maragogi was now very close.

Driven by our love for adventure, we opted to cross over to Japaratinga via the ferry boat (balsa) instead of taking the long overland route shown on Google Maps. It's shorter via the water, though it takes a little bit longer. Crossing on a ferry always has its own special charm.

7. Maragogi: the paradise waiting right outside our door

We arrived in Maragogi just as evening began to fall. After several days of tweaking our plans according to the weather, all we wanted to do was settle in and rest. But our accommodation had an amazing surprise in store. The moment we opened the apartment door, we knew we had chosen perfectly. It was much larger than we expected. It featured a great living area, a fully equipped kitchen, a laundry area, two bedrooms, and two bathrooms. Everything was comfortable and perfectly designed for a multi-day stay.

Without wasting a second, we went to explore the complex. There was a pool, large green areas, and best of all, direct access to Ponta do Mangue beach, considered by many to be one of the most beautiful in Maragogi. You can check out the Booking.com link to see the property in detail here.

There was still a little light left. We kicked off our shoes and walked to the water's edge. The tide was high and the sea moved gently. Tucked between the palm trees, we found a hammock installed right inside the sea water. We couldn't resist. We sat there as the small waves slowly rocked it. It was one of those moments where words aren't needed. Just staring at the horizon and taking it all in.

Afterwards, we walked along the beach toward the Grand Oca Maragogi Resort. Along our path, brightly colored small guesthouses and restaurants appeared, alongside wooden jangadas, sculptures, and details reflecting the cheerful soul of the Brazilian Northeast. The sky remained overcast, but far from ruining the landscape, it lent it incredible tones. That first stroll was enough to show us we had arrived at a very special place. However, the biggest surprise awaited us the following morning. The tide would drop, revealing a corner of Maragogi that very few visitors take advantage of on their own.

8. The natural pool that surprised us more than the Moses Path

The next morning, we woke up early. We had studied the tide charts for days and knew that we wouldn't have an exceptional low tide this week. The minimum tide would hover around 0.3 meters, which is plenty to enjoy the ocean, though not quite low enough to see the famous Moses Path in its full glory. Far from being discouraged, we set out to enjoy every minute.

We walked down the beach toward the Grand Oca Maragogi Resort, where the low tide exposes a long sandbank stretching deep out into the sea. Many compare it to a smaller, though much less famous, Moses Path. With the water barely hitting our ankles, we started walking out into the ocean. With every step, the scenery transformed. When we reached the end of the sandbank, we stumbled upon a gorgeous natural pool of perfectly transparent water. We pulled on our snorkels and dove in. Within minutes, fish of all sizes and colors were swimming around us. We even had an unexpected encounter with a small sea snake, which passed quietly a few meters away from us before vanishing into the crystal waters. It was one of those moments that makes you completely forget about the passing of time.

We had brought water shoes thinking the reefs might hurt our feet. However, we discovered they weren't necessary. The corals are protected and must not be stepped on, while the ground where you can walk is almost entirely fine sand. Along the sandbank, several photo-ops had been set up, alongside small boats serving drinks, fruits, caipirinhas, and even grilled meats. The atmosphere was lively, yet it never lost the calm vibe that defines Ponta do Mangue.

As the tide began to rise, an offer appeared that was impossible to turn down.

A jet ski was towing a massive inflatable raft that bounced over the waves. We asked for the price, and five minutes later, we were on it. The laughter started from the very first bounce. Nacho thoroughly enjoyed every second while we tried to hold on tight without stopping laughing. More than just a simple ride back to shore, it became one of those spontaneous highlights that turns into an everlasting memory.

Back on shore, we kept enjoying the sea right in front of our complex. We didn't know it yet, but the next day we would visit the famous Moses Path... and our opinion would be quite different from what we had read across almost all social media platforms.

9. Is the famous Moses Path actually worth it?

Following the previous day's experience, there was one place we still had pending: the famous Moses Path (Caminho de Moisés). The forecast remained uncertain, but that morning the rain gave us a temporary break. We seized the moment and left early, aligning perfectly with the lowest tide of our entire stay. We had seen hundreds of photos and videos. It seemed to be the one site nobody could skip in Maragogi. Perhaps that's why our expectations were so high.

Upon arrival, we found an environment very different from Ponta do Mangue. There were photographers offering sessions, drink stalls, souvenirs, music, and numerous photo spots tailored for the classic Instagram shots. Everything was highly organized to welcome tourists. We started walking out into the sea. The sandbank was beautiful and allowed you to venture several hundred meters into the ocean, with the water barely covering your ankles in some sections.

Without a doubt, it is a unique and highly photogenic experience. However, it didn't take long for us to realize something: the day before, we had lived a very similar experience right in front of our accommodation, with fewer people, more tranquility, and as an added bonus, a natural pool that was perfect for snorkeling.

Therefore, while we liked the Moses Path, it didn't manage to surprise us as much as we anticipated. This doesn't mean it isn't worth visiting. On the contrary, if it's your first time walking out into the ocean during low tide, you will likely love it. Simply, in our case, the comparison to what we had experienced the previous day was inevitable.

Before heading out, we climbed up to a small lookout located right across from the path. From there, you get a much better appreciation of how the sandbank splits the sea and fades into the horizon. That panoramic view was definitely one of the best postcards of the location.

10. The ruins of São Bento and a moonlit farewell

That afternoon, we decided to explore the surroundings of Maragogi. Our first goal was to find a little-known hidden spot that had been recommended to us, but no matter how many times we asked along the way, we never managed to find the access path. Far from getting frustrated, we shifted plans once more and headed toward the ruins of the São Bento Monastery, one of those spots where history and scenery meet.

The old monastery, built on top of a hill, offers one of the finest panoramic views in the region. From up there, we watched the green of the palms, the beaches, and the sea blending into the horizon as the sun slowly set. It was one of those sunsets that invites you to just sit in silence, simply taking in the view. From the height, we also observed the nearby neighborhoods and a scene that brought a smile to our faces: a group of kids playing soccer with contagious passion. Beyond the score, the important thing seemed to be enjoying the match—a very genuine Brazilian image that stuck in our memory. After watching the sky turn orange and gold, we headed back into Maragogi for dinner.

Our final full day in Maragogi dawned, once again, with seemingly unstable weather. Far from feeling down, we decided to just enjoy the immediate surroundings of our beach accommodation. Whenever the weather gave us a break, we headed down to the shore, walked along the edge, or simply stared at the sea, or relaxed in the ocean hammock.

As evening fell, we made our way to the Mirador do Cruzeiro located on a hill inside the Alto do Cruzeiro Pousada Flat, a property in downtown Maragogi. There is an entrance fee, but the views make it absolutely worth it. From up there, we looked out over the entire bay, the beaches, and the ocean stretching out as far as the eye could see. As the sun slowly dipped below the horizon, the clouds broke apart, and the sky treated us to an unexpected show. Little by little, a massive full moon appeared. It illuminated the sea with an intensity we had rarely seen before. We stood there for several minutes, almost in silence, enjoying one of the most beautiful vistas of the entire journey.

When we got back to the hotel, we didn't want that moment to end. We went down to the beach one last time. The sand was almost completely deserted, and the only sound was the waves breaking softly on the shore. In front of us, the full moon painted a silvery path over the water, lighting up the sea as if it wanted to grant us an unforgettable farewell. In that instant, we understood that even though the weather hadn't always played along, Maragogi had shown us its most authentic side. With that image etched forever in our minds, we said goodbye to the Coral Coast, knowing that someday we would return... perhaps with more sun, but hardly with more beautiful memories.

11. Returning to Maceió and final reflections on the road

The next morning, we said goodbye to Maragogi. The drive back to Maceió was just as pleasant as the previous days. The route rolled through endless sugarcane fields, coconut palms, and gentle hills where large white Zebu cattle grazed—a very different rural landscape compared to what we are used to seeing back home in Uruguay.

Once settled into our hotel, located right across from Pajuçara beach, we went out for a stroll along the waterfront. We tried to rent electric scooters and bicycles to cruise the beachfront promenade, but the app only accepted Brazilian identification documents, so we missed out on that.

Far from ruining our afternoon, we kept walking. Maceió's boardwalk has a truly unique vibe. The jangadas rested quietly on the sand, and we set out to say goodbye to the city from above.

We headed over to the giant Ferris wheel planning to watch the sunset. We scanned our QR code, bought tickets, and joined the long waiting line. What we didn't imagine was that this queue would turn into one of the most heartwarming anecdotes of the trip.

Very close to us, a couple had organized a gender reveal party for their baby. Everything was set for the big moment, but the special fireworks refused to ignite.

They tried once... nothing. A second time... still nothing. The third time was the same. Every failed attempt brought smiles and shared jokes among those of us waiting in line for the wheel. Finally, when the fireworks burst and the colored smoke revealed the awaited news, the entire line broke into applause, celebrating the happiness of two complete strangers.

It was one of those spontaneous moments that only happen when you travel. In the end, the wait was so long that the sun fully set before our turn came. We couldn't catch the sunset from the giant Ferris wheel, but we enjoyed a gorgeous night view of a glowing, lit-up Maceió.

Sometimes travel is just like that. You chase after one specific image and end up taking away a completely different one... yet just as priceless. The next day, we started our journey back to Porto Alegre, and from there, returned to Uruguay. As we drove back home, we didn't talk about the places we had missed out on. We kept remembering the rain, the Google Maps error, the bicycles on the sand, snorkeling among fish, the moon reflecting on the water, and all those small stories that never make it into glossy travel brochures. Because in the end, we understood that traveling isn't about checking off a flawless itinerary. It's about coming home with memories you could never have planned. The unexpected twists were, precisely, the absolute best part of the adventure.

You can follow our daily adventures and journeys on Instagram (@viajoxmicuenta) or drop us a line at viajoxmicuenta@gmail.com.