Milan and Lake Como:
Design, History, and Landscapes

From Venice to Milan — Running All the Way

We left Venice near noon with our hearts racing. We wanted to use the morning to ride the Traghetto one last time (a gondola river crossing for just 2 Euros) and ended up sprinting through narrow alleyways and over bridges toward the station. We jumped into the first carriage right before the doors closed and walked through carriage by carriage until we reached ours (the 7th!).
A fast journey of about 1h 30m brought us to the imposing Stazione Centrale di Milano. Enormous, almost intimidating, with a monumental style blending elegance and a certain sternness.

The 24h Pass: Easier if You Know Where to Look

It took us a while to find the ticket kiosk, which is located outside the main station in the underground level. One of us stayed with the luggage while the other went looking for it without mobile connection (eSIM on only one phone). There were huge lines at the machines, and being disconnected created quite a bit of uncertainty until we met back up about half an hour later (the wait felt endless). Nothing severe, but it’s the exact kind of detail worth planning ahead for. A classic lesson learned on the road.

The Apartment: Part of the Strategy

We booked an apartment via Booking.com just a block and a half from Stazione Centrale. It might sound minor, but it’s not. Between heavy luggage, tight schedules, and transfers, staying near a major train station isn't a luxury—it's strategic. Especially when heading out early the next morning toward Lake Como.

Milan’s Historic Tram — Part of its Identity

It’s not just transportation; it’s part of the city’s identity. We hopped on an old wooden tram, with that signature creak accompanying every turn. It’s one of those details rarely highlighted in guidebooks that ends up defining the entire experience.
Check out our experience in this YouTube video.
It’s not just moving around: it’s traveling back in time while fully functional.

Along the route, we caught a moving postcard view of the famous Bosco Verticale: two residential towers covered in lush foliage. They represent Milan’s other side—modern, innovative, and ambitious.

Arco della Pace and Castello Sforzesco

We got off at Arco della Pace, a grand Triumphal Arch that marks the entrance to a vast park where locals come to unwind, alongside street musicians creating spontaneous scenes. You can feel music, peace, and nature all around.

We walked through Parco Sempione. The weather made us want to linger longer, perhaps checking out Torre Branca (a lookout tower over 100m high), but we had timed tickets for the Duomo soon after, so we simply walked through. The park is wide, green, and provides much-needed breathing room amidst the urban hustle. And suddenly, Castello Sforzesco comes into view.

An enormous, beautifully preserved fortress. We loved the clock, the rooftops, the moats, and the defensive architecture in general. Special mention goes to Filarete’s Tower and the inner courtyards. We didn't enter the museums—a conscious choice—but exploring the exterior alone is thoroughly impressive. We sat by the main fountain for a bit, taking a breather and enjoying the view toward the tower.

We absolutely loved the vibe across this entire area.

The L.O.V.E. Sculpture — The "Middle Finger" at the Stock Exchange

Continuing toward the Duomo, we took a short detour to the right to see the Milan Stock Exchange. The mandatory stop here is Maurizio Cattelan's sculpture L.O.V.E.: a marble hand with all fingers severed except the middle one, pointing straight up at the sky. Ironic, provocative, and distinctly Italian. Many interpret it as a critique of financial power; it also carries that touch of uncomfortable humor that makes you reflect or at least share a knowing smile.

Piazza Mercanti

Getting closer to the Duomo, we veered slightly left to visit Piazza Mercanti—a deeply medieval square where trade, judicial administration, and public life took place between the 13th and 14th centuries. Soon after, the Duomo completely stole the spotlight...

El Duomo di Milano — The Main Highlight

We had everything planned out: timed entry tickets, elevator access, and sunset on the terraces. Because yes, you can take the stairs… but after walking all day, wasting energy on stairs is a poor investment.

The terraces aren't just a viewpoint; they are a journey in themselves. You walk among spires, intricate sculptures, and seemingly impossible architectural details… and that’s when you grasp the true scale of the cathedral. You aren't just looking at the Duomo: you are inside it.

The city views are fantastic too, creating a beautiful contrast between Gothic architecture and modern skyscrapers.

The sunset played its part—as usually happens when you plan well and get a bit lucky. We stayed until the staff literally ushered us out. Between the exquisite detail of every sculpture attached to the Duomo's structure, the distant mountains, and the city buildings, you get completely spellbound. Check out this mural painted with an iconic photo of Al Pacino and Robert De Niro nearby.

Keep in mind that on your way down you'll get a quick glimpse of the cathedral interior from the exit walkway—it’s not a full visit, but at least you catch an impression of what it looks like inside.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Starbucks, and Navigli

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II: Milan's "Drawing Room"

We continued toward Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. It is one of the world's oldest shopping arcades and the ultimate symbol of Milanese elegance, named in honor of Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a unified Italy.

Architecture and the Dome of Continents

If you look up under the striking glass dome, you'll see four large paintings representing the continents. They are massive enough to appreciate clearly from ground level. Curiously, Oceania was not recognized as an independent continent back then. Here is how to identify them:

• Europe: Depicted as a woman in white robes alongside a winged man holding a laurel wreath.
• America: A female figure alongside an African American and a Native American figure.
• Asia: A woman seated on a throne honored by traditional regional figures.
• Africa: Represented with Egyptian attire, a lion, and a Moorish figure.

The Coat of Arms & The House of Savoy

Embedded in the floor mosaic, made of fine marble and tiles, are the coats of arms of the former capital cities of the Kingdom of Italy:

• Rome: Represented by the Capitoline She-Wolf.
• Milan: The red cross coat of arms (see photo).
• Florence: Represented by the Fleur-de-lis.
• Turin: Represented by the famous dancing bull.

In the center sits the crest of King Victor Emmanuel II, belonging to the House of Savoy.

The Bull Ritual

Due to Milan’s historic rivalry with Turin, a quirky custom arose: stepping on the bull's testicles. Today, this gesture has turned into a famous global superstition:

We wanted to do the classic ritual, but unfortunately, the spot was swarming with crowds. Still, watching others attempt the spin is quite a spectacle in itself.

Starbucks Reserve Roastery Milano

Instead of heading to the historic upstairs cafe in the Galleria (steep prices + huge crowds), we ended up at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery. This isn't your average coffee shop: it’s an immersive experience centered around coffee—roasting, grinding, brewing, all fully visible. Housed inside the former General Post Office building (Palazzo delle Poste), the sheer scale of the architecture is stunning. You can observe coffee production on massive industrial machines. Unfortunately, when we visited, the machines were shut down for maintenance, though still impressive to look at.

Dinner in Navigli

We headed to Navigli, the canal district famously designed by Leonardo da Vinci. Here, a different side of Milan emerges: more social and vibrant at night. The goal was to try the famous "aperitivo" featuring an open buffet. We went to a spot recommended by several influencers offering a drink and buffet food for €15. Sounds great on paper.

Lake Como from Milan — We Went Anyway

The night was rough. Very rough. By morning, feeling completely physically exhausted, we faced a choice: cancel or press on?

"If I'm going to feel bad, I'd rather feel bad at Lake Como than inside an apartment." So we ran, bought train tickets on Omio while walking, and boarded the train to Varenna seconds before the doors shut.

We literally ran. Gerardo was buying the tickets on Omio on his phone while walking briskly. We reached Stazione Centrale and found long security queues to reach the platforms. We showed our digital confirmation to the guard as best as we could and sprinted frantically toward our train. The train doors closed 2 seconds before we reached them... In panic, we hit the green door button, and magically it opened. The train was packed to the brim—people standing everywhere, cramped, with zero elbow room. A 1-hour journey standing all the way to Varenna.

A couple of nice travellers shared a step on the train aisle—a small human detail that changes everything. We chatted with a Portuguese girl along the way, swapping travel stories. The kind of spontaneous conversation you don't plan for, but enriches the trip.

Varenna — One of the Most Beautiful Towns on Lake Como

Varenna is truly one of the most picturesque towns on Lake Como, and it was worth every minute of the chaotic journey.

Upon arrival, there was a massive queue to buy ferry tickets to travel between lake towns. We decided to spend our entire day exploring Varenna thoroughly instead of spending precious hours waiting in lines.

The route: walking down from the train station to the waterfront, and following the coastal trail from there. The Lovers' Walkway (Passeggiata degli Innamorati), the Greenway dei Patriarchi winding along the coast, historic villas overlooking the water, vibrant building colors… It’s one of those landscapes that photos simply can't do justice.
Keep in mind there is also an option to travel between towns by local bus.

Villa Monasterio

The highlight of the coastal walk: Villa Monasterio. We highly recommend buying an entrance ticket. The botanical gardens and waterfront views from inside are dreamy. Absolutely worth it.

We strongly recommend grabbing a coffee at the cafe inside Villa Monasterio, perched right over the lake. Breathtaking views and a well-deserved break.

Since we weren't feeling 100%, we slowed down our pace and explored peacefully. No ferries, no rushing. The alternative plan: walking, taking in the views, and absorbing the atmosphere. We had a wonderful afternoon.

On the way back up to the train station, we explored Varenna's narrow alleyways (which consist mostly of steep staircases). Going up and down was a fantastic preview of a "near-vertical" town experience before reaching Cinque Terre.

We headed back in the late afternoon—we were leaving for Cinque Terre early the next morning. We bought our return train tickets on Omio as soon as we arrived at the station.

Back in Milan, we took a moment to inspect the Apple sculpture in front of the train station. It's called "La Mela Reintegrata" (The Reintegrated Apple). It symbolizes the harmony between the natural world (the apple) and the artificial world (the stitch reconnecting the apple bite).

We had dinner right inside Mercato Centrale at the station—highly recommended!

Milan → Cinque Terre: Direct Route

On day three, we caught the earliest direct train to Monterosso al Mare, purchasing tickets on Omio just in the nick of time—as always. The plan was to start in Monterosso, see "Il Gigante" (the famous rock sculpture on the beach), and then head to Vernazza where our accommodation was booked.

We originally wanted to travel between towns by ferry… but sea conditions didn't allow it. We spent time exploring Monterosso and caught the short train ride to Vernazza instead.

But that’s another story altogether.